STREET TRENDS AND HIGH FASHION

THE 8 STREET TRENDS

1. ZOOT SUITS

Zoot suits in the 1940s

Chloe Fall 2009

Emanuel Ungaro Fall 2008

Zoot suits were made popular in the 1930s and 1940s by African-Americans and Mexican-Americans. The trousers were high-waisted, the legs were wide and baggy, and they were tight cuffed at the bottom. The jackets were long and had wide lapels with broad shoulders. These suits required a lot of fabric and were therefore considered luxury garments, worn usually on special occasions. The suits were symbolic of the extravagance in a time of depression and war. The zoot suit riots were, many have said, a reflection of the clash of economic and social groups, particularly the American Servicemen and the Latinos in Southern California.

The images above are of suits by designers such as Emanuel Ungaro and Chloe, inspired from the zoot suits.

2. TEDDY BOYS

Teddy Boys in the 1950s

Givenchy Spring 2010

Jean Paul Gaultier Fall 2009

The Teddy boy culture started in Britain in the 1950s, and it became popular amongst the youth. Instead of wearing the same attire as their parents, these young men opted to wear clothes which were inspired by the Edwardian period. The Edwardian style drape jackets they wore were long and usually had velvet trimmed collars. These jackets were worn with narrow, drainpipe trousers and slim jim ties. These men believed that it was ok to dress smartly and pay attention to one’s looks.

The above images are of garments inspired from the Teddy boy culture, with narrow trousers ans drape jackets.

3. BEATNIKS

Beatniks in the 1950s

DKNY Fall 2007

Marc Jacobs Fall 2008

The Beatnik trend arose from a confluence of rebellion against the staid moralities of America in the 50’s. The trend was a recognition of the simplistic “beaten down” lives of drifters and the “beatific”, or beautiful simplicity the non-conformist life represented. The fashion associated with this anti-materialistic trend included long hair, black clothes and berets, which is evident in the current fashion trends set by designers like Marc Jacobs and DKNY.

4.MODS

Mods

Kenneth Cole Fall 2003

Kenneth Cole Fall 2003

Mod culture originated in Britain. Prominent elements of this culture included pop music, fashion and motor cycles. During this period, the youth rejected what they perceived as being old-fashioned, and instead opted to be cool, smart and hip. They were fashion conscious, and used their income to buy simplistic, yet stylish clothing. The above images are designs by Marc Jacobs which are minimalistic yet very modernistic.

5. HIPPIES

Hippies culture

Diane von Furstenberg Spring 2010

Gucci Resort 2009

This culture began in the United States in the 1960s. People wore wearing clothes which were a reflection and expression of their social and political views. They were called the “flower children”, and sported long hair and bright, floral printed, colorful clothing.

The Hippie culture can still be seen in the designs of Diane von Furstenberg and Gucci, with the presence of bright, colorful prints and flowy garments.

6. DISCO

ABBA in the 1970s epitomised disco culture

Chloe Fall 2000

Sonia Rykiel Spring 2010

The disco phenomenon, a popular music movement around the world in the 1970s, was epitomised by bands like ABBA (see image above). Fashion that emerged from this movement included tight fitted bright clothes, flared trousers & bell bottoms, mini-skirts as well as maxi skirts and platform shoes. Psychedelic colors and lycra fabric were very popular at the time. The shiny and bright designs of designers like Sonia Rykiel and Chloe (see images above) highlight the very same features.

7. PUNKS

Punks in the 1970s

Versace Fall 2004

Balmain Spring 2010

The Punk culture developed in the United States and UK in the 1970s, and was based on punk rock music and was in some ways a reaction to disco. The followers of this culture set out to astonish people by wearing clothes which were both theatrical and outrageous. They sported Mohawks and spiked hairdos, as well as tattoos & jewellery. Ripped jeans and leather jackets were commonly worn clothes.

According to many designers, hardcore leathers and metal spikes are not necessary to show punk culture, as evident in the above images of designs by Balmain and Versace.

8. HIPHOP

Hiphop culture

Dsquared Spring 2009

Dsquared Spring 2009

This cultural movement started in the United States as a means for the African Americans and Latino Americans to express themselves creatively and artistically. It included break-dancing, graffiti writing as well as hiphop fashion. Hiphop fashion included brightly colored brand named clothes, as well as accessories such as multiple rings and chains around the neck. This trend influence can still be seen in the designs by Dsquared in their Spring 2009 collection.

2 NEW TRENDS

1. DHOTI PANTS

Dhoti worn on the streets of India

Balmain Fall 2009

Diane von Furstenberg Spring 2009

Phi Spring 2009

The dhoti, a garment worn usually with a tunic, is a popular dress worn by Indian men on the streets of South India. They are loose at the upper leg and tighten as they go down to the ankle. This garment has recently been the inspiration for pants. Designers like Diane von Furstenberg and Balmain have designed modern dhoti pants which are trendier and a more wearable version of the dhoti. These modern day adaptations are now becoming a very trendy interpretation of an older fashion.

2. KEFFIYEH SCARVES

Keffiyeh worn on the streets

Isabel Marant Fall 2008

Balenciaga Fall 2007

The "keffiyeh" is a traditional headdress worn by men across the Arab world. The garment is worn around the head to protect man from the sand and wind. This trend first became popular in the west during the 1980s, and reappeared in the mid-2000s. Now it is a very popular fashion accessory in the United States, Australia and Europe, and is usually worn as a scarf around the neck. This trend has appeared on the runway and inspired designers like Isabel Marant and Balenciaga.

Source : Style.com

HISTORICAL ARTISTIC STYLES

1. EGYPTIAN

Roberto Cavalli design (Fall 2007)

Painting of an Egyptian woman

The above image is of a design from Roberto Cavalli's Fall 2007 collection. The silhouette is inspired from the Egyptian style of dressing, depicted in the second image of an egyptian woman. The dress is made of a sheer flowy fabric, and the neck jewellery worn by the egyptian woman in the painting has been used by Cavalli as ornamentation at the waist of the dress.

2. GREEK-ROMAN

A “Grecian” dress in silk jersey designed by Madame Gres in 1965.

Dress designed by Madame Gres in 1954 with an asymmetrical neckline.

Greek-Roman sculpture

The famous fashion designer Madame Gres was very famous for her beautifully draped dresses. She did most of her designing based on fabric manipulations and drapes on live models. She started her career as a sculptor, and later moved on to fashion designing, but her designs still showed her Greco-roman sculpture influence. The key elements in her garments were pleats, drapes and folds which were very typical of the Greek-Roman way of dressing.

3. GOTHIC

Designs by Bruno Pieters (Spring 2009 collection)


Gothic painting

The above two images are from Bruno Pieters's Fall 2009 collection which is reminiscent of the gothic art style. His designs have a very structured silhouette, the color palette is dark and he has used velvety, shiny fabrics. This inspiration is also clear from the use of hoods and cloaks in the collection, which resembles the clothes and covering of the head in the gothic painting by Simone Martini, 1285-1344 (third image).

4. SURREALISM

Alexander McQueen Design (Fall 2009)

M. C. Escher art
Dress designed by Catherine Malandrino (Fall 2009) showing two profile silhouettes



Catherine Malandrino design (Fall 2009) showing a weeping eye

The Surrealism movement began in the 1920s. It was based on the exploration of the mind (subconscious and unconscious), and the transfer of those images into art.
The first image is a design by designer Alexander McQueen’s for his Fall 2009 collection. It is a reflection of this artistic style. The print on the dress is reminiscent of the work of the famous graphic artist M. C. Escher, which looks like a geometric design which opens up into a flock of flying birds.
Another designer who was inspired by this movement is French designer, Catherine Malandrino. The above images are from her Fall 2009 collection. The first image shows an appliqué of two profile silhouettes on the body of the dress that turns into a vase in the blink of an eye—a motif originally designed by the artist Jean Cocteau. The second image is of a long dress with an embroidery of an eye crying.

5. ABSTRACT ART

Design by Dolce & Gabbana (Spring 2008)

Jackson Pollock art

Dolce & Gabbana’s Spring 2008 collection included printed dresses inspired by the work of the famous American painter, Paul Jackson Pollock, a person who was a major figure in the abstract expressionist movement. The first image is of a dress with an abstract print from his collection. The second image is of Jackson Pollock’s art, which was the inspiration for the print.

6. POST MODERNISM

Jil Sander collection (Spring 2010)

Raf Simons, the designer for Jil Sander, showed his Spring 2010 collection which was inspired by the postmodernism art styles – Minimalism and Deconstruction. The above images are of designs from his collection. The looks showed deconstruction and manipulation of fabrics, yet remaining minimalistic at the same time.

Source: Style.com

GENEOLOGY OF A HANDBAG

Egyptian Hieroglyphic showing pouches

Pouches used in the Middle ages

The origins of the handbag can be traced to the Egyptians, who carried pouches at their waist or held them in their hands. Pouches later appeared in Europe in the middle ages in the 14th and 15th centuries, carried by both men and women. These pouches, called “pockets” at the time, were attached to the girdle (cord or fabric band that hung loosely around the waist gathering in the robes) worn at the waist.

The first image above is of an Egyptian hieroglyphic showing the pouch being held in the hand. The second image is from the middle ages showing the pouch suspended from a woman’s waist girdle.

16th century handbag

17th century handbags

In the early 16th century, handbags were made of cloth and leather and had a drawstring closure. They were either worn attached to a girdle, hand-carried or worn under clothing. A person’s wealth and social status was often evident in the size of the handbag and by the degree of ornamentation. Lager handbags were carried by travelers across their bodies. In the 17th century, men stopped carrying handbags as menswear clothing began to feature sewn-in pockets. Women, on the other hand, continued to carry handbags which were smaller in size and elaborately embroidered.

The first image above is of a 16th century embroidered handbag with a drawstring. The second image is of the 17th century handbags made from silk or leather, with raised metal embroidery.

18th century reticule

By the 18th century, neo-classical sensibilities influenced women's manner of dressing, and silhouettes of garments became slender. Hence, women started carrying their handbags outside. These handbags were called “reticules” and they became a part of the wearer’s outfit. Women had different handbags to match different garments and to suit different occasions, and used these handbags to carry their accessories.

The image above is of a 18th century reticule made from silk with floral embroidery and silk cord tassels.

20th century 2.55 Chanel handbag

The term “handbag” was first used in the early 20th century. Handbags symbolized women’s new-found freedom and independence in this era. These bags incorporated elements like metal fastenings and internal compartments. In the 1950s the era of status handbags began. It was during this era that designers like Chanel and Louis Vuitton became popular.

The image above is of the handbag created by Coco Chanel called 2.55 Chanel bag. It was a diamond-quilted bag suspended on golden shoulder strap chains.

21st century Bottega Veneta handbag

In the 21st century, handbags have become not only a functional item necessary to support our busy and diverse lifestyles, but have also evolved into a major fashion accessory necessary to complete an outfit. They are available in a variety of styles (such as clutch bags, totes, shoulder bags) and different shapes, sizes, and colors. Women can now choose from a variety of designs depending on their personal styles.

The image above is of a handbag from one of my favorite designer brands, Bottega Veneta. It has style, creativity and fulfils all the requirements of a handbag.