GENEOLOGY OF A HANDBAG

Egyptian Hieroglyphic showing pouches

Pouches used in the Middle ages

The origins of the handbag can be traced to the Egyptians, who carried pouches at their waist or held them in their hands. Pouches later appeared in Europe in the middle ages in the 14th and 15th centuries, carried by both men and women. These pouches, called “pockets” at the time, were attached to the girdle (cord or fabric band that hung loosely around the waist gathering in the robes) worn at the waist.

The first image above is of an Egyptian hieroglyphic showing the pouch being held in the hand. The second image is from the middle ages showing the pouch suspended from a woman’s waist girdle.

16th century handbag

17th century handbags

In the early 16th century, handbags were made of cloth and leather and had a drawstring closure. They were either worn attached to a girdle, hand-carried or worn under clothing. A person’s wealth and social status was often evident in the size of the handbag and by the degree of ornamentation. Lager handbags were carried by travelers across their bodies. In the 17th century, men stopped carrying handbags as menswear clothing began to feature sewn-in pockets. Women, on the other hand, continued to carry handbags which were smaller in size and elaborately embroidered.

The first image above is of a 16th century embroidered handbag with a drawstring. The second image is of the 17th century handbags made from silk or leather, with raised metal embroidery.

18th century reticule

By the 18th century, neo-classical sensibilities influenced women's manner of dressing, and silhouettes of garments became slender. Hence, women started carrying their handbags outside. These handbags were called “reticules” and they became a part of the wearer’s outfit. Women had different handbags to match different garments and to suit different occasions, and used these handbags to carry their accessories.

The image above is of a 18th century reticule made from silk with floral embroidery and silk cord tassels.

20th century 2.55 Chanel handbag

The term “handbag” was first used in the early 20th century. Handbags symbolized women’s new-found freedom and independence in this era. These bags incorporated elements like metal fastenings and internal compartments. In the 1950s the era of status handbags began. It was during this era that designers like Chanel and Louis Vuitton became popular.

The image above is of the handbag created by Coco Chanel called 2.55 Chanel bag. It was a diamond-quilted bag suspended on golden shoulder strap chains.

21st century Bottega Veneta handbag

In the 21st century, handbags have become not only a functional item necessary to support our busy and diverse lifestyles, but have also evolved into a major fashion accessory necessary to complete an outfit. They are available in a variety of styles (such as clutch bags, totes, shoulder bags) and different shapes, sizes, and colors. Women can now choose from a variety of designs depending on their personal styles.

The image above is of a handbag from one of my favorite designer brands, Bottega Veneta. It has style, creativity and fulfils all the requirements of a handbag.

HISTORICAL TAILORED GARMENTS (Western culture)

1. SUIT
A suit is a set of garments (trouser and jacket) stitched from the same cloth. They have been a part of the western culture (American, European and British) for decades. Suits can be two-piece and three-piece, or single-breasted and double-breasted, which determines the social and work suitability of the garment. In earlier times, suits were custom made to the measurements, style, and taste of the customer. But, since the Industrial Revolution, most suits are mass-produced and sold as ready-to-wear garments (though alterations by a tailor can be done if required). There are many current designers who specialize in suits, such as Giorgio Armani and Ermenegildo Zegna.


2. JEANS
Jeans are pants or trousers made from denim. Jeans were originally designed for factory workers during WW II. In the 1950s jeans became popular among teenagers and a symbol of youth rebellion. During the 1960s the wearing of blue jeans became more acceptable, and by the 1970s they had become a very popular form of casual dress in the United States.
Jeans are currently very popular, and are worn by men, women and children. They have crossed international borders and have become a part of the culture of other countries as well.




3. CLASSIC WHITE SHIRT
A shirt is a garment for the upper body. It has a collar, long sleeves with cuffs and a front vertical opening with buttons. The shirt was an item of men's underwear until the twentieth century, worn under regular clothes. American women began wearing shirts only in 1861.
A classic white shirt can be worn by men and women, both as a part of formal clothing (under suits, with pants/trousers and jackets), as well as casual clothing (with jeans, casual trousers and skirts for women). There are many variations of the white shirt created by designers. One such designer (for women) is Anne Fontaine who specializes in designing white shirts.

HISTORICAL DRAPED GARMENTS (Indian culture)

1. Sari
A sari is a garment worn by women in India. It is an unstitched length of fabric which is nine meters long, worn over a petticoat and with a blouse called “choli”. A sari can be worn, formally and casually, in various styles by draping it around the body. It has been a part of the Indian culture for centuries, and till today, it is still a very popular garment in India.




2. DHOTI
A dhoti is a rectangular piece of unstitched cloth, usually 7 yards long. It is worn by wrapping it around the waist and the legs, and knotting it at the waist. It is a traditional dress worn by Indian men, usually with a “kurta” (tunic) on top.
The dhoti was popularized beyond Indian borders by Mahatma Gandhi, a prominent Indian figure. It is still worn by people living in villages, as well as in the metropolitans as a dress for religious and traditional family functions.

Even today, there are garments created by designers, which are inspired by the dhoti.



3. CHUNNI
A Chunni or Dupatta is a long scarf worn by women in India. Chunnis can be worn in various ways, the most common is to wear it across both shoulders with the indian salwar kameez (trouser suit). It is also used to cover the head and is thus considered a symbol of respect and modesty. Even in current times, the dupatta is very commonly worn in India. A recent trend is the short dupatta often seen with kurtas and Indo-Western clothing.

6 FUNCTIONS OF DRESS

1. ENVIRONMENTAL PROTECTION

Venturing outside a spacecraft to conduct assembly, maintenance or emergency repairs is one of the most important activities that an astronaut performs. It is also one of the most dangerous. Astronauts must wear special clothing when executing extravehicular activities to protect themselves from the rarified atmosphere. The clothing helps simulate the atmospheric conditions of earth inside a protective cocoon of specialized gear which permits preservation from extreme temperatures in the most hostile of environmental conditions.

2. DECORATION

There is tremendous diversity in the small geographic area of the Omo valley in Ethiopia. The people in this region are known for their strong tribal identities. Tribal loyalties, some have suggested, are the root of the ongoing hostilities. The maintenance and propagation of tribal identity remains critically important and is apparent in language, custom and clothing. The tribes use elements of nature as decoration. Leaves and flowers are an integral part of clothing and serve both decorative and symbolic purposes.

3. GENDER DIFFERENTIATION

The burqa is a loose outer garment worn by women in several Islamic countries to convey modesty in public settings. This has been a long-standing custom for women in countries around the world, arising from the hadith teachings of the Koran. Gender differentiation is apparent in the fact that men’s clothing continues to evolve and more western garments have become acceptable in society. There is tremendous variety in the interpretation and the demonstration of modesty through clothing. Versions of the burqa or niqab vary greatly in style and form between Saudi Arabia, Pakistan, Bosnia and the United Kingdom.

4. GROUP MEMBERSHIP

The cassock is a close fitting, ankle-length robe worn by the Catholic clergy as their official garb. The cassock has remained a form of dress associated with and representative of group membership.

5. CEREMONIALISM

The Indian ceremonial bridal lengha is a type of skirt, usually very heavily embroidered with beads and other ornate forms of decoration. Lenghas are an increasingly popular wedding dress. A lengha is usually worn with a short blouse called a choli. While the choli is usually tailored and close fitting with short sleeves and a low neck, the lengha is ordinarily very loose. These bridal garments are very heavy as they are embroidered and are made with lush dense fabrics.

6. SEXUAL ENHANCEMENT

Samba music is derived from African and European roots and is closely associated with Brazil and the annual Carnival and has become a symbol of Brazilian national identity. This rhythmic and evocative style of music encourages self expression and promotes a visually and sonically uplifting experience. To suit the occasion, clothing tends also to support sexual enhancement with bright colors, the use of sequins and tight fitting garments that highlight physical attractiveness.

"The Simpsons go to Paris with Linda Evangelista"

In August 2007, Harper's Bazaar did a fashion spread with the Simpsons characters, along with the fashion industry's most celebrated designers - animated.

The spread shows Lisa trading in her pearls for a necklace from Alber Elbaz (Lanvin fashion designer), Marge modelling gowns from Chanel and Versace, Maggie riding in Jean Paul Gaultier’s Birkin Bag, the Simpsons sitting in the front row of a Louis Vuitton fashion show while Marc Jacobs waves to his fans, and Selma and Patty in dresses from designers Viktor & Rolf.

This is one of the most creative fashion editorials I have EVER seen. Television, humor, popular culture, and fashion that have defined the latter half of the 20th century all seem to merge to make a statement. My source book will be a collection of fashion related images and articles of innovative and interesting designs from the 20th century. Together, I hope that they too will merge to tell the story of fashion in our time.